Jackie Loos’ The Way We Were

William John Burchell (1782-1863), who arrived in southern Africa in 1810, was not the first scientific traveller to reach our shores, but was one of the most accomplished. He made careful field observations during his journeys and methodically recorded the results.

In those days, naturalists were interested in many branches of science and Burchell amassed a staggering 63 000 objects. He shot and dissected numerous quadrupeds and preserved 120 skins from 80 species. He collected and studied 265 types of birds. His 500 drawings included landscapes, portraits, costume sketches and precise illustrations of flora, fauna and a variety of artefacts.

Burchell left Cape Town 200 years ago, on June 18, 1811, in a heavily laden mobile laboratory which doubled as his home, travelling in convoy with a mission wagon which was transporting the Reverend and Mrs Anderson back to their station at Klaarwater, beyond the colonial boundary.

He had never camped before and placed himself entirely in the hands of his Khoikhoi crew, who were wise in the ways of managing wagons, oxen and camp routines.

He wrote: “In the evening, our little caravan, which consisted only of the Missionary’s waggon (sic) and people, together with my own, had to me, who till now had never passed a night in the open air, a most curious and romantic appearance. The novelty of the scene kept my mind continually amused, and the sight of the Hottentots, and all their movements, fixed my attention. Their number was about a dozen, men and women: they seemed now to have recovered their natural manners, having left behind them the constraints of Cape Town.

“It was easy to perceive, that this was the mode of life which suited them, and that they felt quite at home amongst the bushes. Seated on the ground by a blazing fire, they passed the time in talking and smoking; while the light, thrown against the nearer shrubs, and various parts of the waggons (sic), produced an effect really picturesque.

“As soon as their supper was finished, they retired to sleep; some wrapping themselves up in their karosses (sheepskin cloaks), lay down under a bush, others by the fire, and others under the waggons (sic), sheltered from the wind by a screen of mats.”

Leaving Pampoenkraal (now Durbanville), Burchell noticed that his men, though illiterate, knew the names of all 20 of his new oxen and the place in the team which each had been trained to occupy.

The two men sent to collect them in the Bokkeveld had heard their names once from Frans van der Merwe, the farmer who sold them. They remembered them precisely and repeated them to their companions, “who now called each ox by his name with the utmost readiness”.

Burchell wrote: “This faculty, common to Hottentots, and to all the African tribes that I visited, shows the high degree of perfection to which any particular use of the mind may be brought by constant exercise; for, with these people, tending and managing their cattle is the grand employment of life. For myself, it was a long time before I was able to distinguish my own team, even from those belonging to the other waggons (sic).”

They had their first accident before they reached the pont (bridge) across the Berg River. Burchell’s overloaded wagon bogged down twice and had to be dug out after unloading some of the contents. The wagon pole broke during efforts to drag it out by brute force, and had to be replaced.

This was a salutary lesson and Burchell resolved to buy a second conveyance in Tulbagh, the last village on their route, where they tarried for several pleasant days.

They left on July 4 and negotiated a primitive track which followed the course of the Hex River and then mounted the escarpment.

Burchell had been invited to unyoke his oxen and send them inland via a shortcut while he made use of teams provided by wayside farmers who were under orders from the Drostdy at Tulbagh to facilitate his journey.

He accepted gratefully, but was afterwards sorry, because the strict timetable worked out in advance prevented him from exploring the fascinating pre-Karoo landscape which excited him. He was glad to dispense with this relay system once he was reunited with his animals.

His second wagon, a smaller, shabbier vehicle, was used to transport stores and his crew’s bedding and possessions, leaving his newer wagon free for scientific pursuits. Burchell stocked up with supplies whenever he could buy them from friendly Boer households, including flour, potatoes, onions, dried pears, tobacco and wine.

On July 13 the various wagons rendezvoused at Karoo Poort, the gateway to the arid semi-desert region that dominated the interior.

l Next week: Across the Great Karoo to the Gariep.