DEN ANKER
* * * Appetising, fresh and flavourful food
Pierhead, V & A Waterfront
Open daily 11am to 12pm
www.denanker.co.za
Den Anker celebrates its 21-year milestone with wine, snacks and, of course, premium beers, writes JOS BAKER.
HAPPY birthday to that buzzing Waterfront pioneer Den Anker, whose owner, Belgian-born entrepreneur-cum-businessman Denis Bouckaert, saw the potential of the new project. He took over the lease of the liquidated Trawlers restaurant in 1994.
A skilled cook and gourmet (his speciality was whipping up a non-curdle mayo at the drop of an egg) Denis’s career path was not that of a conventional restaurateur. It encompassed working as a brewer and brewery engineer for Heineken in the Belgian Congo and Angola, and as a hobby, opening several brasseries, pubs and restaurants in his home town of Ghent. The “hobby” then expanded to Cape Town’s Waterfront.
A subtle touch – that has preserved the familiarity of the surroundings – has been sprucing up the welcoming interior through the years without major changes. The upturned hull over the gleaming bar is part of Cape Town history: it’s an honourably retired 30ft sloop that once sailed in Table Bay.
To be in business for 21 years in the same spot, staffed by the nucleus of today’s management team, is no mean feat in today’s fast-changing restaurant scene. To celebrate their milestone, Den Anker threw a party on the quayside terrace, with its picture-postcard view of Table Mountain. The day was perfect, beer and sparkling wine flowed freely, and best-selling specialities like moules marinières and frites streamed out of the kitchen in an unending flow.
To thank them “for growing with us over the last 21 years”, guests were given a young yellowwood tree as an imaginative parting gift. Proud of their South African roots, the Belgian-inspired restaurant looks forward to growing these relationships in the years to come.
But the joy was diluted with tears, for owner Denis was not there to share in the celebration, though his widow Lise (who keeps an eye on the restaurant though frequent trips to Cape Town), flew in from Belgium to represent him.
Not that Lise need worry. In a charming tribute, the staff described dedicated GM Rejeanne Vlietman, as their “anchor”.
She runs a tight ship, while her husband, executive chef Doekle, heads the kitchen team.
The two met at school, and after leaving, teamed up to work in Amsterdam. It was here that Rejeanne learned to speak Dutch and was introduced to traditional cuisine. Back in Cape Town, she enrolled for a textile design course, and like most students, looked for a part-time restaurant job. Because of her Amsterdam experience, she chose Den Anker.
Soon elevated by Denis to “greeting and seating”, she was then offered a permanent position – and the lure of the hospitality industry proved irresistible. Today her unflappable charm is backed by 21 years experience at Den Anker. And the fact that the wine list is constantly updated to accommodate new labels and releases, is the result of her belief that “there’s nothing more enjoyable than food with a glass or two of wine”.
The restaurant’s long-serving staff is a textbook example of stability that extends to the three chefs, who are a rare example of kitchen camaraderie: “the knives are kept for chopping”. Ask them if it’s not boring to concentrate on one cuisine, and the answer is an emphatic “No! You can’t get bored if you’re constantly refining and testing recipes.”
Doekle was appointed head chef in 1998, joining the “old man” Solly Senoamadi, who has helped Den Anker grow for the past 21. From the Eastern Cape, he’s Belgian-trained; has lived in Belgium where he cooked for two Belgian families. Youngest recruit is Capetonian Elton Carelse, dubbed the “kitchen clown” for his happy nature. He received his training at the coalface – or as Denis put it “at the furnace”.
I’d rate their enthusiasm as a major factor in holding and increasing custom over the years. Plus evolving with current market trends; lightening traditional dishes; introducing local specialities and adding sophisticated fare without dropping the favourites that made the restaurant’s name.
I’m not sure Denis, whom I knew personally, would have approved. I remember a food-judging competition where he and I served on the judging panel. Denis asserted firmly that “you don’t serve custard with mince” (bang goes best-selling bobotie) “or cook with cheese”.
The menu is extensive. Take tapas on the terrace, or given the location, go for seafood. My all-time favourite is just-seared sesame tuna; with salmon tartare and tender pepper steak as close contenders. As dessert, be adventurous: sample deliciously refreshing Liefmans Fruitesse, matured for 18 months on cherries, blended with natural fruit juices, and served frozen.
This is a venue that calls for watching sleek yachts glide past while you relax with wine or enjoy a Belgian beer. Imported beer has always been a drawcard, from artisanal Kwak beer, served in so valuable a glass that you’re asked to leave a deposit of your left shoe that’s hoisted in a basket to the rafters, to Belgian-brewed Anker Beer, brought in casks to Cape Town. So popular is this house-brand that the 1000 000th glass set a sales record in November 2002.
The wide selection has now been extended. Rejeanne has taken on an added challenge, starting the Belgian Beer Company in 2013 as an importer of premium Belgian brands, to satisfy the palates of beer drinkers looking for new flavours and qualities.
l Starters R45 to R120 for West Coat lobster tail; fish dishes R120-R170 (excluding build your own platters); meat dishes R85-R175; desserts R20-R65.