I NEITHER coo over babies, nor consider toddlers’ antics or first words cute. So what was I doing at a Nobu KidsOnly tasting? Getting a column, that’s what. And unexpectedly, it turned out to be a fascinating marketing exercise.
Subscribing to the “catch them young” principle, the One&Only’s Nobu restaurant has launched a world first for the international restaurant brand: KidsOnly gourmet platters. And instead of simply imposing an adult view, they deserve credit for hands-on research in a slick child-fed operation.
Guinea pigs were 16 kids from babes to 11-year olds – did you know that infants are born with around 30 000 tastebuds, but by adulthood, only a third remain on the tongue? Judging by the enjoyment, noise level, smeared faces and miso rice balls on the carpet, the test group was totally representative.
Much to my relief I was seated at a table with delightfully self-possessed Luca Truen, one of the well-travelled, sushi-conversant youngsters asked to participate.
The objective was to obtain feedback on the platters, palate-friendly versions of sushi, governed by the fact that everything young palates eat is amplified in flavour, whether zesty, zingy, sour and sweet. The latter were avoided so that kids could focus on the ingredients’ natural salt and sugar – though soy sauce was on the table for adult use. (While accompanying mums and dads had their own sushi selection, in the course of duty I sampled the bold, bright children’s platters).
Nobu chef Keisuke “Keke” Ito (part of the Nobu family for 15 years before coming to Cape Town) took note of the growing number of younger guests accompanying their parents to the restaurant, and judged the time ripe to introduce dishes that would appeal to them.
Experimenting with shapes and sweeter flavours designed to tempt to younger palates while still keeping to the Nobu/Asian fusion style, he played with unusual ingredients like Yamamomo mountain peach, introducing burger and pizza-shapes for a fun element.
But never underestimate your market. Tasting feedback showed that while the KidsOnly menu is a hit with younger, less sophisticated diners, plainer, sweeter sushi has little appeal for seasoned young international travellers used to dining at Michelin-starred restaurants. Eleven-year- old Luka Dequeker confirmed this, finding the rice balls “not seasoned enough” and while he can’t wait to go back, “will order from the normal menu next time”.
Also 11, Luca scorned the learner chopsticks to reach for the real thing, criticizing the menu as “dumbed down” – an apt assessment of a meal of sweeter canapé-sized items (ideal for little fingers). Go younger, and Guy Manley typified five-year-old pleasure in wielding the bright pincer-like chopsticks and “playing chef”.
The chefs’ sushi-making demo enthralled those watching. But the final put-down was from Luca, who, after her first taste of sushi, bought the DIY kit. I’d wager that most young palates are less proactive – and given their own menu, kids will stop begging bites from their parents’ platters.
l Set menu R145 for vegetarian and R245 for fish, six pieces each.