THIS week my restaurant visit was crowned with stars for my steak: dry-aged and perfectly butchered fillet on the bone, a cut I’d not tried before, butter-tender and delicious, it was served bleu as requested – unlike too many South African steakhouses, where bleu translates as medium rare.
And those who claim that fillet lacks flavour should try it the Butcher Shop way: rub with olive oil and then coat with mustard seed and black pepper before grilling.
I could have selected my own cut from the customised butchery – but left the choice to the experienced hands-on owner Dani Pick, whose family has been in the butchery trade for three generations.
His grandmother was South Africa’s first woman butcher, while the trend-setting Johannesburg outlet, the first to combine a butchery with a restaurant, was the brainchild of his entrepreneur father, Alan. After 20 years, the plethora of imitators testifies to their success.
The pioneering venture, which I tried in the days when the floor was scattered with sawdust (a practice stopped by the city’s health inspector) is now a Johannesburg institution.
The welcoming new 65-seater Mouille Point branch, opening without fanfare about three weeks ago, sees the return to Cape Town of the business started by Dave and Faye Pick as the Farmer’s Meat Supply in Kalk Bay.
Already booked-out for dinner, this is no casual steakhouse, but a relaxed, white-clothed and well-appointed restaurant dedicated to grills,with immaculate butchery.
Here specialist blockmen will cut and prepare your meat to your taste, either to eat or to buy – even providing giant bones for St Bernards.
Total consumption of beef in butchery and restaurant is a staggering 18 tons a week.
Each order is grilled to customer’s requests, though given South Africa’s lower natural meat fat, meat, particularly fillet, tends to dry out – hence the kitchen’s refusal to take responsibility for steaks cooked past medium.
While sauces are offered, perfectionist Dani shares my view that to sully a perfect steak with barbecue sauce is a crime.
Service is well-trained and helpful. Smiling waiters sport natty braces publicising best-selling Pick’s Pick wines, an exclusive range from leading winemakers.
Given its volume in premium wine sales and status as the top buyer at the CWG auction for more than 10 years, it’s small surprise that the Butcher Shop is able to offer the pick of producers in a value-for-money selection.
Don’t expect innovation. Relax with familiar favourites – like deep-fried camembert with cranberry sauce and tiger prawns in the shell – listed on the extensive, conservative menu, which includes creamed spinach and baked pumpkin among the sides.
Choices extend from vegetarian burgers to seafood, fish (including Loch Duart salmon, flown in from Scotland weekly). Rosemary-wrapped deboned legs of lamb vie in appeal with juicy thick sliced leg chops and riblets (try the zesty izimbambo zemvu); deboned chicken claims best-selling status.
As all meat is halaal, there’s a separate grill for pork.
For dessert, relive childhood memories with jelly and custard, indulge in a “best-ever” chocolate brownie; or end lightly with nut-and-cherry-filled halva.
l Starters, including gravlax, are about R63 to R98; seafood is from R125 – SQ; side dishes are included in steak prices, which range from R152 to R198, lamb is from about R150; pork from R130; chicken from about R135 and desserts from R57.