A taste of paradise

Published May 15, 2015

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Terri Dunbar-Curran

WATER bubbles gently in the background as the remains of a chaotic day dissipate along with the sounds of a chaotic city. This oasis of tranquillity is Kyoto Garden Sushi, tucked away just off the busy Kloof Nek Road. It feels like a secret piece of paradise as we settle in – but in a very short space of time every table is full and hushed conversations mingle with unobtrusive mood music.

Unique wooden furniture, warm ambient lighting and delicate décor make it the perfect venue for an intimate dinner or special occasion – just make sure you book, it’s a popular spot.

Considering the upmarket nature of the restaurant, we expected a slightly more formally-presented menu, but once we perused all it had to offer, all need for trimmings was forgotten. Start with a cocktail or a Japanese whiskey – there is an impressive variety to choose from. I was briefly tempted by the Dirty Ninja Saketini if only because of its fantastic name. Japanese sake is muddled with cucumber, nori and sweetened rice wine vinegar and then mixed with vodka and gin. But I opted instead for the Kyoto Cosmo – Kyoto Garden Sushi’s take on the classic. Fresh lime and triple distilled vodka are mixed with raspberry sake and gin. It was delicious. My husband, Richard, chose the Ginger Mizuwari – root ginger, fresh limes and whiskey stirred slowly to bring out the natural flavours. It was a winner and definitely a cocktail we’ll go back for.

If you’re new to Japanese cuisine you may find the menu of authentic dishes a touch overwhelming, so let your waiter guide you. Ours was a great help, especially when it came to portion sizes and what works well together.

To start we selected the Wagyu Japanese beef thinly sliced and the vegetables tempura. The beef was tender and tasty, and the portion small enough that we weren’t concerned about spoiling our mains. The tempura consisted of a selection of battered and deep fried veggies served with salt and soy sauce. Don’t expect the same veg every time, the chef uses what he has on hand.

Other tempting starters include warm scallops in their shells, seaweed with red salmon roe, and Ecstasy – scallops, prawns and octopus sauté.

A bowl of steamed edamame beans still in their pods was a delightful surprise between courses. Buttery and delicious, they were best I’ve ever been served.

For mains, Richard opted for the Chef’s Creation of sushi, sashimi and rolls – a masterpiece featuring fish and other ingredients the chef considers the finest on the day. The dish comes in small, medium or large, so you can adjust to suit your appetite. If you’re not feeling as adventurous, you can also order your sushi in servings of two to eight pieces, featuring ingredients like eel, crayfish and Alaskan crab.

I chose the Miso style soup with Japanese noodles, mushrooms, seaweed and tofu as my main and wasn’t disappointed. The broth was earthy, rich and incredibly filling, I savoured every last spoonful and vowed to return for more.

Look out for the Alaska Night – seared salmon, giant Alaskan scallop and Alaskan king crab; and fresh whole crayfish steamed in a bamboo pot and served with two dipping sauces.

If I’d had room I would have tried the Japanese grilled mushrooms which includes shiitake, shimeji, enoki, maitake, eringi, ukidake and oyster mushrooms – any mushroom-lover’s idea of heaven, but I already had my eye on the dessert menu. I chose the cherry blossom ice-cream with chocolate and relished the colour and floral flavours it offered. Richard picked the green tea crepe with green tea ice-cream, and a minor battle ensued as to who had made the better choice. Considering we both polished our plates, I think it’s safe to say there were no losers.

The flavours in Kyoto Garden Sushi’s dishes are light, fresh and wholesome, and we left comfortably satisfied but not bursting. The prices may not be on the cheap side, but it’s well worth putting a little aside for a special celebration, or a much-needed culinary pampering.

l www.kyotogardensushict.com

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